Cabot Trail

A Clockwise Loop Around Cape Breton's Cabot Trail

Cabot Trail, Nova Scotia is a tour aroung Cape Breton Island. Riders travel through the Gaelic heart of Celtic settlements in Atlantic Canada. Historians still argue about whether Venetian explorer John Cabot made landfall in Cape Breton or Newfoundland on his 1497 voyage financed by an English king. But there is no doubt that the Scots and Irish settlers who came later established a culture of friendliness and music that is evident everywhere in modern Cape Breton.

Ride the Cape Breton Highlands for Stunning Views

Cycling is on paved roads. Terrain is hilly, especially on the two days of cycling in the park. Climbs and descents in some sections can be quite steep. Services in some areas can be minimal. Scenery is spectacular, especially along high cliffs in the highlands, in Cape Smokey and from Kelly's Mountain at the edge of Bras d'Or Lake.

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Home of the Big Fiddle

Cèilidhs (traditional music gatherings) are held in town halls across Cape Breton and it's fitting that the mascot for the island's biggest town, Sydney, should be a giant fiddle. In Gaelic it's Fidheal Mhor A' Ceilidh and it is at a cruise ship pavilion on a waterfront dock.

From Sydney head overland to the shore of Bras d'Or Lake, an inland sea. A high bridge crosses the channel that connects the sea to the Atlantic Ocean. Our destination is Baddeck, a lakeside resort town. Alexander Graham Bell had a summer cottage there and it's now a National Historic Site. When Bell was there he financed the Silver Dart, Canada's first flying machine.

The Trail Starts

At Baddeck the officially designated Cabot Trail begins. From there cross over Hunter's Mountain and follow the Margaree River, a popular destination for those who fly fish for trout. The Margaree empties into the Gulf of St. Lawrence near Cheticamp, an Acadian French town that is famous for its hand-made tapestries (the Queen has one).

Three Climbs

Just past Baddeck enter Cape Breton Highlands National Park and soon get to the first of three challenging climbs — French Mountain, starting at sea level and 455 metres at the top. This is a short day and we stay at Pleasant Bay, a harbour for whale-watching boats. Leaving Pleasant Bay, the climb soon starts to the top of North Mountain (445 metres), the most challenging ascent and descent on the Cabot Trail. We end that day at Ingonish and stay there for a rest day. If you still want more climbing there are hiking trails into the highlands. Or you could amble along the many kilometres of sandy beaches that look out onto the open Atlantic Ocean.

Cape Smokey

From Ingonish climb to the Cape Smokey lookout (366 metres). It's a relatively easy climb but a challenging descent that ends with a switchback turn. North River, our destination for this day is at the end of a long estuary on St. Ann's Bay. At the head of the estuary is a hiking trail to the longest waterfall in Nova Scotia at 32 metres. It's a 9-km hike each way to the falls.

Back to Sydney

Leaving North River, it's not far to the Gaelic College, an institution devoted to teaching Scottish culture and music. Demonstration sessions open to the public include kilt-making, Celtic music and dance.